Leakage current affecting CFL’s – any way to fix?
Well, I finally got around to putting in one of my projects. This one is a “wireless switch extender” – the lights in the basement are only controlled by a switch at the TOP of the stairs, so this allows me to have a wireless remote at the BOTTOM of the stairs to control it. It’s a Heath Zenith part.
The problem is, pretty much every bulb in my house is a CFL! I understand the leakage current is being used to power the switch in much the same way as a lighted switch would. Unfortunately, this causes CFL’s to flicker and try to start repeatedly as their capacitors fill. I’ve installed incandescents in these fixtures, which obviously don’t mind the leakage current. I hadn’t remembered this issue originally because my other wireless switch is for a plug-in type – which of course has a tiny “night-light” to provide the resistance so the plugged-in lamp doesn’t flicker.
Anyway, I’m wondering if there’s anything I can do to avoid this issue with CFL’s? I really hate using 60W bulbs when I’d normally be using 13W, and so I wouldn’t mind spending at least a modest amount of money on this.
The switch only controls two lights downstairs; no outlets are on the same circuit – just the light at the top of the steps, which is switched in the same box at the top of the stairs, but with a separate switch.
Ideas, anyone? I realize I’m not likely to come up with much, but I thought I’d ask! Incidentally, before anyone asks, hard-wiring a switch to the bottom of the stairs isn’t really an effective option – the walls/ceiling are finished and there’s no access to the space above the staircase ceiling (there’s another staircase on the first floor right above it with no way to access the gap) – and the switch at the top and the only feasible location at the bottom are on opposite sides of the stairs.
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Anyway, I’m wondering if there’s anything I can do to avoid this issue with CFL’s? I really hate using 60W bulbs when I’d normally be using 13W, and so I wouldn’t mind spending at least a modest amount of money on this.
The only way to control CFLs from two locations is to fish in some three conductor cable and install a proper three-way switch. Any device which depends on leakage current to operate will not be ideal with any type of fluorescent fixture.
They do make remote controls which use a neutral wire instead of leakage current, but you’re back to the original problem of having to fish in a new cable which has the neutral wire.
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Incidentally, before anyone asks, hard-wiring a switch to the bottom of the stairs isn’t really an effective option – the walls/ceiling are finished
Drywall is pretty cheap and easy to patch.
