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Posts Tagged ‘Bad Odors’

P Trap for tub

January 20th, 2010

I live in Des Moines IA area and am getting ready to put a tub/shower combo in the basement. The drain for the tub was put in without thought to a shower/tub combo but rather just a shower pan. My question is since the drain is 24″ from the framed wall on the right and 22″ from the back of the wall can the p trap be put in where the concrete is cutout for the drain or does the p trap have to go directly under the tub drain cutout?

Technically, You will need to reduce the drain pipe to 1.5″ and run that pipe so trap is under tub end with waste assembly…

Here, you need to chop out about a 12″ square hole (6 inches left and 6 inches right of center of tub) in the concrete at the right or left hand end of the tub (where drain is)….and then channel that over to where the shower drain is.

The 12″ square hole should be dug out to about 6-8 inches deep and then you want to connect the trap to the tub waste and overflow assembly you have connected onto the tub.

Otherwise, if you reduce the pipe from the shower ptrap and run only a pipe over to the tub waste you are creating an illegal trap and that can lead to siphoned trap and bad odors/poor drainage….

Let me know if need more info….

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toilet installation on uneven base.

November 17th, 2009

hello there,

I have just installed a new toilet and I see the toilet base is lifting around 1/4 inch off the ground on front end as the tiling is not perfectly level. I am not sure the previous one lifted as much – but this is as good as I can get now with all adjustments I could make while keeping the rear firmly on the ground. Possibly the base contour is different and is amplifying the surface defect. I am fairly sure there is no left over debries causing this.

I do not have any bad odors or leaks for the past 24 hrs – hope thats some indicator of the wax seal under.

I have currently added ridigity by tapping in wood shims and it seems fairly rigid now.

1) Is this good enough? So I can slip in some weak mortar cement under and caulk it all around?

2) or should I try to readjust the installation and make the gap even through-out.

which one of the above is best for stability and rigidity.

Please advice

thanks in advance.

I have already run into a toilet that was cast real bad, and the front end went up in the air like a ski jump, even though the rest was flat on the floor. I put some shims under it and actually there was such a gap (3/8 inch or more to my recollection), that I troweled caulk around the base, with a wider putty knife, by riding the curve of the toilet so that when dry it would look like the toilet was down to the floor, when in actuality, it was really caulk.

Whatever you do, whatever you use, do not make it that you can’t easily knife cut the filler and relift the toilet sometime, without cracking the toilet or tiles or lifting tiles.

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