With 40-60 minutes left in cycle, all the lights go out, and the d/w will not respond. After 5 or 10 minutes it will start back up and add a few minutes to the display, but it is rare that it will ever finish. I can get it to Cancel/Drain if I push it while the d/w is running.
I tried the test that I found at http://www.applianceaid.com/boschDW.html It ran the test for ~15 minutes with a “1″ in the display the whole time, then it shut off. It stays off for 10 minutes, then it comes on again for a few minutes. The whole time there is soapy water in the bottom of the d/w. (I have not added soap the last 6-8 times that I have run it. But I have not used the wrong soap, and there is no soap or water in the float pan under the d/w.)
When it stops during the test, the water temp is 130 to 140.
I’ve had it 3 years, so electronic parts are still covered, but labor is not. If it’s a $30 part, I’ll fix it. If it’s that $170 board, I’ll probably call someone.
turn off power at the breaker and remove toe kick panel. on left front is power connections- many fools install with wire nuts facing down, allowing water(soapy) to short out the connections. normally it blows and stops working at all. what’s up with the rinse agent dispensor? is the cover closed and stay closed for the entire cycle? was it ever open during wash, causing excessive bubbles- which needs to be flushed out before it’ll work correctly(dry all water from sump area, get a gallon of water, pour it in and start any cycle which will initially drain, then cancel/drain cycle. repeat until no foam inside when washing. the ntc sensor may be bad- washer’s waiting for temp to be achieved before advancing, adding additional minutes to program, but never getting there, leaving wash water in sump. and you guys gotta give complete model #’s, serial #’s help also.
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