DIY Network – Home Improvement How-To & Projects : DIY Network

In the pro plumbing section there is a pricing thread talking about water heaters. It seems that people think electric is easiest and indirect is difficult? If I understand it correctly, an indirect is one that is fed off of your main boiler. I have one lik that and when I got an 80 gallon tank to replace the 40, it took a bit more than an hour. If there is no high voltage or gas to hook up, just the low-voltage wires why is this kind harder?

Also, why does it take so long to drain them? I didn’t notice the guy waiting to drain my 40 gallon one. He hooked it up to the hose very first thing, and let it go out the yard. I think it drained in something under 10 minutes.

If you are talking about a swap out, it is not that much more difficult, but take into consideration that you have 4 pipes instead of 2 to disconnect and re-hook up. Hot, cold and boiler supply and return. Also take into consideration that chances are your new tappings will be in a different location, unless it is the exact smae brand and model, and even then things may change.

An 80 gallon indirect is a very big size for indirects. Unless you live in a mansion, you are probably way oversized. Most houses in Westchester will use a 40 or 50 gallon indirect. They are not sized the same as “conventional” heaters.

admin Plumbing Boiler, Gallon Tank, High Voltage, Indirect Water, Low Voltage, Pipes, Plumbing Section, Smae, Voltage Wires, Water Heater, Water Heaters

So I am rewiring my bathroom. I am in the middle of the project, of gutting the whole thing and running new electric.

Originally there was a ceiling light, and a vanity light, and one receptacle. The lights were controlled by a low voltage switch, which if any of you have ever worked with, basically sums it up….

So I went ahead an ripped out the LV and lights and vanity light, and will not be using any of that electric, well, I may use one to run the new vanity’s (maybe) . But my new exhaust/HEAT/light/night light (nu-Tone) requires it’s own circuit, so I am running a new 12/2 to a 20 amp breaker in my box. For the new receptalces, I will be running another independent GFCI breaker for those. The load on the receptacles, will be a hairdryer, maybe a hair straightener, electric toothbrush charger, electric razor charger, and not much else.

The wire was cloth coated, but felt rubbery and slightly oily.

So here are my two questions.

Q1)
Could I run the vanities on the same circuit as the GFCI Breaker line??

Q2) The real reason for my question and long rambling intro. When I pulled out the old wiring, many continued on circuits down the line. Tonight, all that I did was tie up the connections with wire nuts, and tape them together.

Tomorrow I plan to purchase junction boxes, and place the connections in the junction boxes, and mount the boxes on the ceiling joists on attic floor. All of these wires are in my attic. My attic is insulated with, vermiculite granuals. celluslose blown in, and some fiberglass (which is tearing up my arms as I type )

Anyhow, safety is my NUMBER 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, ….. concern.
Will the junction boxes be a better, safer alternative to just tying up the connections????? All of my connections are tight, with the correct size wire nuts, and then taped, so I think that I am fine, for tonight, but will put them into junction boxes as soon as I can pick some up.

Thanks-

For that set up.,,

Now for safety issue question yes if you know the circuit will stay alive yes you need to have them be in junction box and mark it down where it run so someone in future will know what to look for,

admin Electrical Amp Breaker, Attic Floor, Ceiling Joists, Electric Razor, Electric Toothbrush, Fiberglass, Gfci Breaker, Hair Straightener, Hairdryer, Junction Boxes, Low Voltage, Lv, Number 1, Real Reason, Receptacle, Receptacles, Safety Advice, Vanities, Vanity, Wire Nuts

After 13 years a fixture with transformer, above the kitchen sink, for a 12 volt MR-16 bulb with the two-narrow-pins-type plug, stopped working in the summer of 2006. For months I tried a number of fixes–nothing worked. In the spring of 2007 I discovered the existence of JDR bulbs–MR-16s with an E-26 base and (presumably) line voltage. I bought a prewired porcelain receptacle for an e-26 base and wired it to the cable in the ceiling.

The GE, 35 watt, JDR bulbs that are supposed to last two years have all lasted about 3-5 months. As I went to change the bulb today I noticed bad corrosion at the point where the wires are soldered (or however fastened) to the top of the receptacle. (Usually, when I put a very high-wattage bulb–not the case here–in a receptacle, it’s the interior part of that receptacle that eventually burns away–not the wiring on the exterior part).

Is there something about the original cable that came with that fixture, that protrudes from the hole in the ceiling, that’s incompatible with the wiring on an ordinary prewired porcelain receptacle?

What you describe is definitely not correct. Something went awry during the manufacture process, IMHO. But I would consider replacing the fixture, too many things not going right there. I have done a number of low voltage fixtures, and i do occasionaly get one that is a trouble maker, I replace it after the second call back. But 13 yrs is not would I would consider a call back.

admin Electrical 12 Volt, 13 Years, 5 Months, Bulbs, Burns, Corrosion, Existence, Imho, Kitchen Sink, Line Voltage, Low Voltage, Many Things, Pins, Porcelain, Receptacle, Trouble Maker, Voltage Fixtures, Wattage Bulb