DIY Network – Home Improvement How-To & Projects : DIY Network

Everyone likes to have home improvement work done but most people are afraid of the words, “do it yourself.” There are many different types of DIY home improvement projects out there but not enough time to do them all. What we will do now is take a look at the steps needed to DIY re-upholster a chair.

1.Be sure to take pictures of the chair before you tear it apart. Be sure the pictures are of the overall chair and its detailing.

2.Now you need to remove all the upholstery being careful not to tear any because they will be used for patterns. Use pliers and scissors for this.

3.Remove the black cloth from the bottom of the chair first. Then remove each piece while making sure to mark each one so you know where they went.

4.Cut and add batting as needed for each section of the chair.

5.Take the original pieces and lay them right side up. Watch for patterns and motifs.

6.Pin the old pieces to the new fabric and cut the new fabric leaving at least 2 to 3 inches of excess.

7.You now need to figure out how much welting you will need.

8.Now it’s time to place the pieces back on the chair after they have been assembled.

9.Next staple the welting to the chair.

10.Now pin the fabric to the sides of the seat to ensure a perfect fit.

11.Next tack and ensure the fit of all other upholstery for the chair and then staple it.

12.You can use the original skirt for the chair or use the old one as a pattern for a new one.

13.Finally trim all of the excess fabric. Use a strong fabric glue or adhesive to attach buttons if needed. And you’re finished.

Now you know next time you need some home improvement you can do it yourself. DIY home improvement doesn’t have to be a struggle and it doesn’t have to take forever. All you need to do is relax and take your time. If you follow the directions to DIY reupholster a chair it should be a great new addition to any home.

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I am having trouble finding the PCV valve on my 2000 ford taurus. It is a 24 valve dual overhead cam.

On my 2001 Ford Taurus SEL, 24 valve, DOHC engine, the pcv valve is located not where you think it would be. The best way to tell you how to locate it is to follow one of the largest hoses (it’s not big…probably 3/4 i.d.) coming out of the throttle body and follow that down to where it mates up to the pcv valve. To help locate the hose, it will be underneath the throttle body and will have a grey hose clamp. The hose will also form an “L”. It also turns to a plastic hose too, if that helps. So… rubber “L” hose to plastic hose back to rubber fitting, then the pcv valve.

One more thing I forgot to add. The pcv valve for this is made by Motorcraft (part number EV-243 or part number EV-268) EV-268 has a metal hose wrapped around the part. I was told that on some Ford minivans, the metal tube is for coolant to run through…. I guess to keep the valve cool. Anyway, you won’t need this for your Taurus. Simply bend it slightly and pull it off. The valve, you’ll notice, has square-like sides. This is to allow you to put a pair of pliers on it to remove the old and insert the new. The part has to be turned about a quarter turn counter-clockwise to remove and the opposite to install. You’ll also see that it has a rubber o-ring on it to seal it in the block. You won’t be able to reach it well with just your fingers, unless you were to remove the wiring harness and fuel rail. So… simply use a pair of pliers to reach under the wiring harness and grasp the square-sides of the valve and twist it counter-clockwise to remove. I didn’t need much pressure at all to remove it, although I read online where one guy’s cracked when he did it. He claimed it was in there so long that the piece was siezed in the opening. Mine simply twisted out and I twisted the new back in.

admin Auto Coolant, Dual Overhead Cam, Ford Minivans, Ford Taurus, Fuel Rail, Good Reason, Hoses, Mates, Metal Hose, Metal Tube, Overhead Cam, Plastic Hose, Pliers, Professional Mechanic, Quarter Turn, Radiator, Radiator Hose, Throttle Body, Valve Dohc, Wiring Harness

Does anybody have any advice on how to get the washer inside the coupling nut and around the supply tube? I am replacing the inside of the toilet tank and I can follow the instructions fine that came with the set. I had a little trouble getting the old cone washer out cause it was in bad shape. The coupling nut does not seem to be able to come off the supply tube without cutting it off and replacing it. Will I have to do that? Is the supply tube joined by an transition fitting or some type of adapter to the coupling nut? I also wonder if the fitting or adapter is glued when it was installed. I could only get the washer down inside about halfway of where it seemed to supposed to be. I ended up tearing the washer up trying to jam it down in there with the blunt end of a pliers handle. Is there a better way to do it? How do I get the coupling nut off the supply tube because I got a new one in the kit. It also looks like I damaged the threads of the coupling nut. I will have to get a new cone washer tomorrow somewhere. I don’t want to put the damaged one in there now. Is there anything I also might want to pick up to help me out?

The best thing to use is a stainless steel braid toilet supply line. They did away with using the cones on this design, so you shouldn’t have that problem. Now as far as all the damage you did with your pliers, good luck, as it is difficult for us to see what you did.

admin Plumbing Bad Shape, Cones, Good Luck, Little Trouble, Pliers, Stainless Steel, Steel Supply, Supply Tube, Threads, Toilet Supply, Toilet Tank, Transition, Tube Cutting