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I was talking to my wife the other day and she made a comment about wanting a hot tub after she saw my wonderful welder project nearing completion. Now, I have a 200 main box and I know that I will need a sub panel. I have space for a 60amp breaker (the one I have, is rated at 60 degrees–its a GE THQL2160)
I also have several feet of #6 THHN wire (red, balck, white and green). Now here is my problem:
If I were to run a main lug style sub panel off of my main breaker with this #6 THHN wire (As feeder wire..enclosed by conduit of course), will this wire support a 60 amp panel without catching fire or overheating?? I found the NEC 310.16 chart that says the following:
6 AWG at 60 degrees is rated at 55amps
6AWG at 75 degrees is rated at 65 amps
6 AWG at 90 degrees is rated at 75 amps
WHEREAS 4 AWG at 60 degrees is rated at 70 amps.

If I am not mistaken, it looks like I need 4 AWG feeder wire to run this 60 amp subpanel since my breaker is 60 degrees.

I am confused why there is a higher amp rating when the temp is higher than cooler. I thought that when something heats up, resistance goes up and current gets impeded. (until the device or wire cools off)??? Can someone please shed some light on this?

The last thing that I want to do is use this wire as a 60 amp subpanel feed, then come to find out that it is too light and that I should have went with #4 AWG.

The rating is absolute safe maximum but does not take into effect the distance of the run. Longer distances need larger wire size as there will be more loss.

1. Determine the length of the run.
2. What the requirements of the tub are.
Detailed hookup instructions will be in the installation manual.

admin Electrical Amp, Amps, Awg, Boxes, Clarification, Distances, Feeder, Gfci, Hookup, Hot Tub, Nec, Provisions, Resistance, Shed, Spa, Subpanel, Thhn Wire, Tubes

I’m an avid DIYer, but am new to plumbing. I’ve got very very little water pressure coming out of the kitchen faucet. This is my faucet: http://www.moen.com/products/7590C and I’ve removed the handle, and replaced the cartridge. (It was brand new and free, by moen). So, I can say that it isn’t the culprit. I’ve disconnected the tubes where the shut-off valves are to check for their functionality, and they look okay.

Also, the aerator is clean, I’ve checked it and it isn’t disturbing the water flow.

Where else can I check?? I am stuck and have no clue why there is such little water pressure. Is there a problem coming down from below the tubes? The dishwasher isn’t giving me any complaints…and it runs from the same water supply.

Trying not to call a plumber here, so any of your expertise is really appreciated!

Thank you kindly.

You could possibly have a bad shut off valve under the sink. It could have some dirt in it. Connect a flexible supply tube to one of the shut offs and point it into a bucket, turn on the water and see if you get a good spray. If you do try the other one. If you have good pressure there, it must be in the faucet.

admin Plumbing Aerator, Clue, Culprit, Dirt, Dishwasher, Diyer, Functionality, Kitchen Faucet, Little Water, Moen, Plumber, Plumbing, Shut Off Valve, Shut Off Valves, Supply Tube, Tubes, Turn On The Water, Water Flow, Water Pressure, Water Supply

I have a rheem gas/ac rtu. When the unit calls for heat it fies up fine but later kicks out due to limit switch in burner compartment tripping, while watching the burners i notice that 1 of the five burner tubes is not burning smoothly and allows the flame to escape into the compartment rather than going into the tube, this creates excess heat in the compartment and trips the limit. Why is only one burner firing this way? The tube is clear.

The unit needs a clean and check. During that time it is possible that either the burner tube(S) or the heat exchanger will be found defective by a HVAC professional.

admin Heating Burner Tube, Flame, Gas Burner, Heat Exchanger, Limit Switch, Rheem, Tubes